The former clutter up the Austin skyline, circling as the condos rise. The latter roost with their pups under the Congress Avenue Bridge, coming out at twilight to feed. There's music in the air, too. It spills out of bars like The Continental Club. We happened to be walking past it last week. A sign in the window read, "James McMurtry." A guy in the doorway said, "Seven bucks." The Austin City Limits Festival was still more than a day away, but the town was already starting to earn its reputation as the live music capital of the world.